A Family of Hawkers (Part 1)

 

For many Singaporeans, life without hawker food is unimaginable. Hawker centres are not only a congregation of great, authentic Singaporean food, but also a place we gather to create bonds and memories. Some even consider hawker centres as a cultural icon of Singapore. Yet as time goes by and our society progresses, fewer young Singaporeans are keen on hawker life, instead preferring to opt for other career opportunities. Without successors to their legacies, these hawker stalls that are so much a part of our lives may soon be no more than fond memories.

 

This Singapore Day, we are pleased to bring over some hawker stalls that have been passed down through generations. These young hawkers are among the few heroes preserving our culture through their hard work and determination. They share some of their stories with us.

 

328 Katong Laksa

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One of the winners against Michelin-starred chef in the recent Singapore Singtel Hawker Heroes Challenge was 328 Katong Laksa, and it is through the combined efforts of mother and son that led them to victory. Ryan Koh, 31, started helping out at his family’s laksa stall since he was 15. He said, “It was quite tough juggling between working and studying, but I would feel ‘heart pain’ for my parents if I don’t help out.”

 

He graduated from the Building Services course from a local Institute of Technical Education (ITE), but ultimately decided to take over his parents’ laksa stall instead. He said, “Nowadays, younger generations don’t really want to take over the business. But for me, this is my parents’ hard work so I try to continue bringing good food to more people.”

 

He remembers the difficult beginning of his hawker journey and said, “When I was small, most of the time I’m at the store. After school or on weekends, my friends are playing and going out, and I’m here from morning to night… it wasn’t easy.”

 

Yet, he continues his passion in cooking, to which he credits his parents, “My parents created me, so I got the genes from them! I love food. They taught me to make laksa.”

 

Sharing about his experience as a fifth-timer at Singapore Day, he recalled, “Seeing everyone enjoy the food is something that makes me feel very happy.”

 

Ryan will be coming to Singapore Day alongside his mother, Mdm Lucy Lim, and they are looking forward to “serving good laksa to Singaporeans here in Sydney”, promising to do the best they can.

 

Abdhus Salam Rojak

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Abdhus Salam’s rojak stall was named after him by his father, or perhaps it can be said that he was named after the rojak stall. He laughed as he recounted, “My father named the stall after me, but there was a typo in the sign – my name doesn’t have a letter ‘h’. To avoid confusion, sometimes I just tell people that my name is ‘Abdhus’ Salam now.”

 

He said, “I started (helping out at the stall) at the age of 16, while waiting for my ‘O’ level results. I was like a part-timer who would help out whenever I’m free, and from there I knew roughly what my father was doing. I only really started working at the stall when I was 20.”

 

The 27-year-old completed his Engineering degree and worked as an assistant engineer for a few years. When his father was struck by some health issues and required more rest, it triggered Salam to think about taking over his father’s business. He said, “My father used to start work at 4am and does not return home until 11pm. If I’m here to help, he can go home after lunchtime and come back in the evening for the dinner crowd. I feel this is the best I can do as the eldest son.”

 

He said he had “fulfilled his parents’ dreams” by completing his studies, and now wishes to “take up my father’s trade and not let it die”. He added, “I can be a responsible son and at the same time, not let my father’s efforts over the past 20 years, bringing it to such a level, go to waste.” Even though he is putting all his heart into continuing this rojak business, he says he might still put his engineering background to good use in the future, such as creating technology to enhance the dining experience.

 

To Salam, the best part of being a hawker is the countless opportunities to interact with people. He said, “Sometimes unexpectedly, your National Service campmates, or people you used to know will turn out to be your customers – that’s what happened to me. When people tell me my food is good or when they can recognise me, it makes me happy.”

 

“I am looking forward to having a good response from Singaporeans in Australia and for it to be a smooth and happy event. It’s a beautiful bonding event where overseas Singaporeans can eat the food they miss and catch up again. In a way, it is like recharging their energy!”

 

Dragon Phoenix Restaurant

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One of the legendary “four heavenly kings” of Singaporean cuisine is coming to Singapore Day, along with his 46-year-old son, Chris Hooi. Chris started helping out at the stall when he was a teenager, usually during school holidays. His father had trained him to help out in the kitchen, before he went to the United States to pursue a degree in Travel Industry Management in Hawaii. There, he studied about food and beverage industry management, which is relevant to his management of the restaurant.

 

His father, along with 3 other master chefs, trained under the same “master” when they worked at the Cathay Restaurant. When they each opened their own restaurants, they even had an altar of their master in the kitchen. Now, Chris has decided to do his part in continuing this legacy.

 

Much to my surprise, Chris said he was not originally interested in cooking. He recalled, “Like any other young boy at the time, I was interested in soccer and hanging out with my friends. During the holidays when everyone was playing, it’s the busiest time in the restaurant and I had to work here.” He gave up on his initial dream of becoming a pilot and turned to what he was most comfortable with – the restaurant environment which he grew up in.

 

Yet over time, he has grown to love his job and now, as the Executive Director of the Dragon Phoenix Restaurant and also a chef, the restaurant is a part of his life.

 

Having been an overseas Singaporean himself, he is looking forward to participating in Singapore Day and bringing the best of chilli crabs over to Australia. He said, “I understand how meaningful this is for those who cannot come home for a long time. Through entertainment and the taste of local food, I hope to strengthen the bond of the community, and for overseas Singaporeans to maintain their Singaporean identity. It keeps us connected and tells them Singapore hasn’t forgotten them, so please don’t forget us also.”

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These young hawkers, while continuing their parents’ and ancestors’ legacies, say they will let their children pursue their own interests and dreams. Like the rest of us, they hope that the younger generation will continue their legacy, too. Meanwhile, they are doing their best and preparing to bring you the very best of their cooking on Singapore Day, so register now!

 

By Sim Yu Xiang